Sunday, October 27, 2019

Friday Pattern Company Seabright Swimmers

Let me start by saying I wore the heck out of this swimsuit on my recent trip to Fiji.  And I LOVE it.  I love the long sleeves.  Its my second swimsuit make and I intended it as a wearable muslin and yes, there's quite a few things I'd like to fix in my next version (and there WILL be a next version possibly not for a while as I don't need one for a while - and I have two!).



I offered to test the pattern for the Friday Pattern Company as they've recently extended their size range and this new Seabright Swimmer pattern was offered in the extended range.  I was given a free copy of the test pattern and subsequently a copy of the final pattern.  My main incentive was my upcoming trip.  I've hacked the hell out of the Cashmerette Ipswich swimsuit to get it to work without the extra seaming so I was keen to try something that offered a one piece without excessive seaming.  The sleeves means quite a bit more sun coverage which I'm really keen on.  At some point I might get around to making a rash guard but as summer has come to a close here - that's likely to be quite some time off.



This was the tester version so the front lining was enclosed (my preference) but its changed in the released version as a few testers found it problematic.



I really liked the 'guts' finish of this.





Back neckline was a little tight - I need to check the pattern pieces before I make the next version.



I made this up on the Fabric Hoarders monthly sewing meetup which was so useful to convince me that the neckline wasn't too risque for me!  Thanks peeps!

I made up 1X graded to 2X at the waist.  I didn't do an FBA and I'm regretting it.  I would have liked to add the foam cups but the suggested placement wasn't going to work for me as the suit is designed for a B cup.   And the combination of not making many similar patterns nor doing the FBA meant I wanted to wait and see the outcome.  The front would definitely benefit from the FBA as the seamline below them is pulled quite high on me (I have a large bust and larger too at the moment as I'm still breastfeeding).  The back neckline was quite tight but I'm not sure what line I needed to cut as I printed all the sizes so it could have easily been user error here.  Its quite hard to get on and off due to the arms and I'll make the sleeves looser the next time.  Sounds strange as I've just listed the current fit issues but its a definite winner from me.

The instructions were clear and the print layout was excellent as they've really made good use of the pages.

My Cashmerette fits better in terms of pulling but I found myself reaching to check if this was dry each day and wearing it if it was.  The neckline is a little risque but as my sewing meet up suggested, the sleeves make it less exposed so its not in your face (though I could see how some people would easily rock that - I'm more comfortable in more coverage with the added bonus of sun protection).

I made it up using the rest of the pineapple swimwear fabric I bought from the fabric warehouse for my last swimsuit make and some additionally purchased black lining from Nellie Joans as well as swim elastic I earlier this year in their swimsuit competition.  I had to shorten the sleeves to 3/4 as I didn't have enough for full length but I like them that way so unintentional win!

Pattern: Friday Pattern Company Seabright Swimmers
Size: 1x to 2x at waist
Adjustments: shorter sleeves due to fabric availability (but that's a win) and size grading.
Future changes - FBA.  The Friday Pattern Company have a tutorial up online and I'll check that out next time.
Fabric: Pineapples from fabric warehouse and lining and swim elastic from  Nellie Joans
Verdict: Win!

*disclosure* no affiliate links in this post.  I was given a copy of the swim wear pattern to test and did not need to write a review nor post photos.  I've also been sent a copy of the final version but haven't opened it yet.

Thursday, October 10, 2019

Crochet: the (not) bear hooded cardigan

Last year I bought a few balls of yarn at the Made Marion moving sale and went in search of a crochet pattern to suit the oversized yarn.


Its a DMC Natura XL Just cotton in 07 lagon and its 'super chunky'. I found a pattern I liked on ravelry (Bear Hooded Cardigan) and I was off.







It took far too long to make this despite the small size of the finished product. I ran out of yarn and Made Marion was out - I assumed they weren't going to stock it any more as they made product changes during the move.  But I should have asked as it was back in stock BEFORE my order arrived from overseas.  Also having chatted with the lovely Brendan at the counter, I really should have asked as they would have been more than happy to accommodate if possible. Bah!  Hopefully a mistake I don't make again.

I found the hem stitches a little hard to follow and realise my mistake now after I managed to get it working beautifully on the sleeves.  Ah well.


Hem


Sleeves

I sorted through my button stash for suitable closures but they were far too small after I sewed them on.  I should have read the instructions a little more carefully. I swapped the stash buttons out and made another trip to Made Marion for ones that would work.


Too small!


Just right!

The pattern calls for a 5mm hook but I have a tight stitch and I sized up to 6mm. I'm not convinced in hindsight it was enough!  I made up size 2-3 but its a little small on my 2 year old so its going to a great home to her cousins.

Pattern: Bear Hooded Cardigan (currently US$4.99)
Hook: 6mm (pattern calls for 5mm)
Yarn: DMC Natura XL Just cotton in 07 lagon super chunky from Made Marion (mostly). I lost track of how many balls it took - I think 7?
Size: 2-3y
Changes: I left off the ears as I ran out of yarn and didn't want to buy another ball for just those pieces.  


See? So close...

You get to choose the number of buttons so I used my trusty SimFlex expanding sewing gauge - ha! any excuse!

Verdict: Cute and I'm really disappointed it doesn't fit my little one - the only way I could find motivation to finish was to realise I could gift it to her cousins!

Wednesday, October 9, 2019

Paprika Jasper sweater round II & III

It took me over 3 years to make my first Paprika Jasper sweater and only weeks to make the next 2!


This lovely sweater number is in black merino knit from The Fabric Store in Wellington that I purchased for this pattern around the same time I bought the pattern.  Its luscious but pulls a little too easily.


And this hoodie version is from unassigned stash and an extra purchase to 'pad' out the fabric requirements.  The Anchors knit is from Levana in Levin and the dark gray is from The Fabric Store.  
The dark gray sweater knit is rather thick which made sewing through multiple levels on my overlocker a little difficult.

Both versions have welt pockets.  The merino ones went in fairly easily but I had a lot of unpicking for the anchor version (even though it was round 3).




Despite the required effort, I really do like the look of them.  I used a thinner cotton lycra knit for the pocket lining (as suggested in the instructions) to reduce the bulk for the ''unseen'' layer on the inside of the pocket.  The merino isn't super bulky so I was able to join the pocket piece and the front piece into the hem band.  Not so for the anchors.  Hah!  My overlocker really struggled and my 'great' idea to ensure the pocket was a little tidier inside by including in the hem band was not so clever after all.

The merino version sewed up so beautifully and easily. I was super pleased with the pockets and put it on the floor in the living room to decide on buttons.  Our cat decided to investigate and pulled the front piece 😭. The fabric also tore!!!  Gah!  So I'm including the photo of the button test when it was pristine!  




No!!!!!!!!!

But I managed to fix it as best I can and its a comfy addition to my wardrobe.  


(please excuse the small person hand prints on the mirror - they're never not there it seems!)



The hoodie version isn't quite as comfy.  The hood is massive and if I make another version I'll make it smaller.  Also would be happier if the inside of the hood was lined.  The front 'bib' also is a little high for my liking.  I've left off the suggested buttons because of the two fabrics (felt that they were enough).






Fabric: Merino from The Fabric Store (version II), anchors from Levana and gray sweater fabric from The Fabric Store (version III)
Size: 8 at shoulders/hood/sleeves and graded to 9 at bust
future changes: reduce the size of the hood