Thursday, January 24, 2019

Itch to Stitch Beausoleil Top

I finally finished the Itch to Stitch Beausoleil Top.  Its been in the works since my Christmas holidays and a relatively quick sew but I took forever to do the the hand stitching (isn't that always the way?).



This is one of my #MakeNine2019 makes and I was really in need of more work tops.  I really liked this pattern as I'm keen on sleeves in my work clothes (less under arm shaving and I feel a bit more comfortable).




The fabric is a cotton voile I purchased in Brazil when I was there on holidays (quite a few years ago now). 

Pattern amendments?  I cut an 18DD for the hip and bust and graded out the waist.  I measure a 18DD at the bust, 16 at the hip and size out to probably a 22 at the waist (the pattern sizes up to 20).  My grading wasn't to my full waist measurement as there's a bit of ease and I didn't want to over fit.  I marked my measurement and lined up the 18DD pattern lines to something that looked ok.  (Very scientific!).  I also changed the zip to an invisible zip - which gave me a bit of extra wiggle room around the waist but it was mostly because I couldn't get my head around the lapped zipper instructions and just wanted to sew!

Mistakes and do overs? I'm not sure I'll bother making this pattern again.  I like it but its a bit of a possible niche in my wardrobe.  It'll be good for work but not more dressy work occasions like external meetings as my bra straps are visible.  I prefer my work clothes to do as much 'duty' as possible.  I wonder if I can enclose the cold shoulder openings to make a more versatile top?  I really should do a search to see if anyone has done this and what it looks like.  I definitely messed up on the zipper but this version is perfectly wearable.  I also cut the fabric upside down and my lovely parrots are all facing the wrong way.  I really don't mind this but might marginally prefer having them standing correctly!

Niggles?  The waist could be sized up a bit - I think I was a little too lenient in my grading.  Its workable but 2cm or so would make it more comfortable.  I have small shoulders and would benefit from a small shoulder adjustment so my bra strap isn't visible.  The back gaps a bit around the top of the zip - again a small shoulder thing and not uncommon for me in patterns but also likely to be partly caused by changing the zip type.  There's a bit of bunching around the sleeves when my arms are down but I need the space when I raise my arms without completely pulling up the top so I think I'd just live with it if I made the pattern again.




Fabric and notions? Cotton Voile from stash purchased in Brazil.  Red invisible zip from Made Marion.

PatternItch to Stitch Beausoleil Top - also comes as a dress but I only printed the top pieces.  Not sure if I'll make the dress.  Rather low on my list so its unlikely.

This is the first itch to stitch top I've finished and I'm really pleased with the multiple cup sizes, makes my sewing life so much more enjoyable.  I've got the Chai shirt fairly high on my to make pile (and in my make 9).  I printed out and muslined the Mila shirt but didn't have fabric I wanted to use to make a wearable version so never bothered.  I may reconsider when I've sewn up enough fabric to buy some more!  Next on the sewing table is a pair of Belize shorts (I've made two this year so far that I'll blog about when this pair is done) and a Papercut Fjord Cardi.  Both are from my MakeNine2019 list.

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