Itch to Stitch Beausoleil Top

I finally finished the Itch to Stitch Beausoleil Top.  Its been in the works since my Christmas holidays and a relatively quick sew but I took forever to do the the hand stitching (isn't that always the way?).

This is one of my #MakeNine2019 makes and I was really in need of more work tops.  I really liked this pattern as I'm keen on sleeves in my work clothes (less under arm shaving and I feel a bit more comfortable).

The fabric is a cotton voile I purchased in Brazil when I was there on holidays (quite a few years ago now). 

Pattern amendments?  I cut an 18DD for the hip and bust and graded out the waist.  I measure a 18DD at the bust, 16 at the hip and size out to probably a 22 at the waist (the pattern sizes up to 20).  My grading wasn't to my full waist measurement as there's a bit of ease and I didn't want to over fit.  I marked my measurement and lined up the 18DD pattern lines to something that looked ok.  (Very scientific!).  I also changed the zip to an invisible zip - which gave me a bit of extra wiggle room around the waist but it was mostly because I couldn't get my head around the lapped zipper instructions and just wanted to sew!

Mistakes and do overs? I'm not sure I'll bother making this pattern again.  I like it but its a bit of a possible niche in my wardrobe.  It'll be good for work but not more dressy work occasions like external meetings as my bra straps are visible.  I prefer my work clothes to do as much 'duty' as possible.  I wonder if I can enclose the cold shoulder openings to make a more versatile top?  I really should do a search to see if anyone has done this and what it looks like.  I definitely messed up on the zipper but this version is perfectly wearable.  I also cut the fabric upside down and my lovely parrots are all facing the wrong way.  I really don't mind this but might marginally prefer having them standing correctly!

Niggles?  The waist could be sized up a bit - I think I was a little too lenient in my grading.  Its workable but 2cm or so would make it more comfortable.  I have small shoulders and would benefit from a small shoulder adjustment so my bra strap isn't visible.  The back gaps a bit around the top of the zip - again a small shoulder thing and not uncommon for me in patterns but also likely to be partly caused by changing the zip type.  There's a bit of bunching around the sleeves when my arms are down but I need the space when I raise my arms without completely pulling up the top so I think I'd just live with it if I made the pattern again.

Fabric and notions? Cotton Voile from stash purchased in Brazil.  Red invisible zip from Made Marion.

Pattern: Itch to Stitch Beausoleil Top - also comes as a dress but I only printed the top pieces.  Not sure if I'll make the dress.  Rather low on my list so its unlikely.

This is the first itch to stitch top I've finished and I'm really pleased with the multiple cup sizes, makes my sewing life so much more enjoyable.  I've got the Chai shirt fairly high on my to make pile (and in my make 9).  I printed out and muslined the Mila shirt but didn't have fabric I wanted to use to make a wearable version so never bothered.  I may reconsider when I've sewn up enough fabric to buy some more!  Next on the sewing table is a pair of Belize shorts (I've made two this year so far that I'll blog about when this pair is done) and a Papercut Fjord Cardi.  Both are from my MakeNine2019 list.

An apron for a littlies

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A self drafted PUL apron for my 3 year old niece.  PUL fabric from Fabric a Brac in October last year and quilting cotton straps from stash.  I'm making quite a stash of makes for her birthday this year - its getting a bit nutty...



The PUL is a cute Winnie the Pooh fabric and should be easily cleanable for messy art.



I used my size 20 KAM snaps on the neckband.



And self lined it with the same fabric. I based it on the one I made for my little person and sized it up (hopefully enough!).

Trousers: style arc willow trousers

I have actually managed to sew for myself this year.  Though the results are rather mixed.  This pattern however was an eventual success.  I want to sew a few more trousers for my wardrobe and fill some gaps as well as use up a bit more of my stash.

I started with a fairly basic non-stretch woven pattern from Style Arc - the Willow Trousers in size 18.  It has a small waist bannd and side zipper with a slim fit leg and a hem split. 

Based on my measurements (and experience drafting for woven pencil skirts), I removed the darts.  I  measured the crotch and leg width against a relatively well fitting RTW pair and it was fine.  However, my calves are quite large so I wondered if that would be an issue. I overlocked all the raw edges so I could play with the seams later.  The pattern has a 1cm seam so I stuck with that.

So draft one was sewn up in stash fabric - I would have been happy to wear these if they'd worked out but it wasn't to be!  The length was about an inch too long, and I needed to raise the front by 1.5 inches to account for my tummy.

There was also quite a bit of excess fabric in the bum area - not surprizing as I have a rather flat bum.



The side seams were falling quite straight until the mid calf.



Version 2. I redrafted the front and unpicked the front and recreated the trousers.  Much better but the seams were a little rough so I didn't trust them to stay together so moved on to version 3.  And they're wearable!!! Woo hoo!!!!  Colour feels a little like a police uniform but I can live with that!



I used wool purchased last year in the Fabric Warehouse pop up shop (for $3 a metre!).  This time I got a little more adventurous and added pockets.  I used the Itch to Stitch woven joggers as a base for how I drafted the internal pockets but then also extended the pattern piece to the centre front seam so I had a bit of extra support in the front.



Not sure exactly what I did wrong but the piece didn't fully line up when I added them altogether.  There was about a 3/4 inch difference.






I remembered to reinforce the pocket seams and everything!



Fit is good but pulling to the back of my calf is more obvious.





I used an invisible zip and added a cute button and job done!







The hem slits are nice and I got a wear out of it before the seriously warm summer weather hit.



Pattern: Style Arc Willow Trousers - rather significantly amended
Size: 18 with a lot of alternations
Fabric: Wool from the Fabric Warehouse
Notes for next time: maybe do something about the calf pulling.  Use different fabric for the pocket guts so there's less fabric to be sewn into the side zipper.  I think I might try a front zip the next time.  I have a burdastyle pattern I can use to help draft the changes to this pattern.  I also have some stretch denim I might turn into a pair of trousers too.

Shark, baby shark

I couldn't seem to get the baby shark song out of my head (don't click! (you're welcome!)) as I worked on this pattern.  Its so cute I was even willing to put up it with it.



Everything from stash except for the safety eyes - purchased in Made Marion (who are on the move this month to a new premises on Cuba Street).  Its the free (!!!) shark pencil case pattern from patternposse.com.  I downloaded it from my craftsy account but the previous link is from the makers website.



Love the pattern and its well sized for a pencil case but my little person has a lot of larger markers at this age so I've printed it out as A3 to make a larger version with an easier zip to manipulate.  I strayed a little from the pattern instructions and used my overlocker and the back of the fabric for contrast.  The zip insertion was a little fiddly and I hope to do a better job the next time.



Pattern: Patternposse.com via craftsy
Fabric: Outer - leftovers from an unblogged (and failed) pinafore purchased at the Fabric Store - it has a bit of a glitter running through it which hasn't come out in the photos but looks good in real life.  Inner: Stitchbird quilting cotton leftovers repurposed from our wedding table runners. Notions - zip from stash and freshly purchased safety eyes from Made Marion.

Taking stock and looking forward

The end to another year.  Caution - there's a lot of navel gazing here.

2018 wasn't the most wonderful on a number of fronts and I rounded out the year by getting mastitis on Christmas Eve and having to go to the doctors on Christmas Day.  I was just rather run down - though it feels odd when it happens in the middle of the summer.  Being so far from my family was rough this year as my father had major surgery and my brother is now the father to new twins and his toddler daughter.  I'd really love to have been there to help out for both events. 

On the sewing/crafting front, I tried to work through my existing supplies. Partly because I'm losing my sewing room soon so my little person has their own space and partly because I'm increasingly conscious that a large stash is a waste of resources.  I haven't been making as many cards as in previous years and my stash of finished cards is much depleted - unfortunately my stash is likely to see me off the planet with out buying anything other than card stock, glue and envelopes.  In terms of sewing I've found SewJourners stash shrinker spreadsheet to be useful in curbing fabric additions, and keeping track of Works in Progress.  But also its become a bit of an obsession and not always the healthiest of habits where I've been obsessively trying to reduce my stash and then blowing out on two occasions. I started off with a 3 out 1 in ratio and moved to 2 to 1 mid year.  Unfortunately by the end of the year, I hadn't managed that.  My final ration for the year was 1.7 with 44.75m purchased and 76.25m out. 

So what did the spreadsheet do?

1. I've made a dent in my sewing stash but not as much of one as I'd hoped. 
2. I've cleared some space in our house but not as much as I would like!
3. I have a better idea of what my fabric buying habits are. 
4. I have a better idea of how long projects take and subsequently how long it takes to sew up that amount of fabric.  While I only record finished dates in the spreadsheet I do have a WIP tab and a plans tab.

I bought some fabric as needed for projects and I'm ok with that (especially as I've gotten a bit better as buying as close to the amount I need as possible rather than a 'sensible' amount!).  I also bought some fabric while I was in the States and again I'm ok with that.  It was semi-planned but I haven't made up much of it yet.  The issue is more the two larger blow outs at Fabric a brac and the Fabric Warehouse pop up shop.  Fabric a brac is awesome and I'm a sucker for sales but I need to get over my FOMO and only visit if I have a pattern/project in mind.  FAB is a little different as its such a great initiative but I went overboard this year.  That said I realised what I'm doing because of the spreadsheet and have a much better handle on what's coming in and going out.  I made a special effort to stitch up FAB purchased in the meantime.  Currently, 5.7m of flannel finished as PJs for me, and two little people, two crew misusu sweater for two little people, 1m of quilting cotton as a cushion cover and some of the rest as nappy change bags - probably about 8m of the 15.5m purchased - it takes so long to use up and I really need to remember that when buying!

I joined instagram (@sewmancer) this year as I've gotten in to a style rut since LP was born - partly because my body has changed shape a bit, particularly the size of my boobs.  I'm still breast feeding so that's impacted my motivation to create tops that fit as I know it will change again when LP weans.  Its been great to see some curvy folk - particularly sewists - rock their looks and I've found it useful for some inspiration.  I've joined into the Make 9 challenge for 2019.  Hopefully it'll serve as a bit of a visual reminder of what I'd like to make and I currently own all the patterns needed (I had a bit of a spree on black Friday).   

#MakeNinein2019

These aren't the only things I plan on making this year but they're a few of my recent pattern purchases or they're stand ins for more general ideas.  I really liked my Twig and Tale Animal vest (its my favourite make of the year and one of my favourite of all time).  We have a lot of clothes for LP (most of them hand me downs from friends) but not a lot of shorts. Now the weather's gotten a bit more summery I need to make up one or two of these.  I should have suitable fabric in stash somewhere so this will be a fairly early make.


Twig and Tale Pixie Shorts

Also on the list for LP is the Dia sweater by Misusu.  I really like the colour blocking options on this pattern.  I'm not sure I have the fabrics though but will see after I print it out.  A nice cute option.


Misusu Dia Sweater

We're off on our first Pacific Island holiday this year - two weeks in Fiji!  I. can't. wait.  One of our friends works over there and we're having a reunion with a few friends over Easter.  The other week is a resort week - I wonder how we'll do?  The resort option is a lot more attractive with LP!  As a result, I'll need some new togs.  I have one that 'mostly' fits that I use for LP's swimming lessons but I would prefer one I'm actually comfortable in.  So here comes the Cashmerette swimsuit.  I have some fabric on order from the US but will need to buy lining and bits.  This should be fairly high up my list as I'll probably have to iterate to a version I'm happy with but it scares me so I've no concrete plans at present!  Hopefully that Easter deadline will help!


Cashmerrette Ipswich swimsuit

I spent a lot of time earlier this year getting the Belize shorts from Itch to Stitch to fit so hopefully they're a TnT pattern for me.  I'm sitting here in a quilting cotton pair that I love for sleeping in warmer weather.  I have a little linen from FAB a few years ago that should just about eeek it out for me.  If all goes well I also have some stretch cotton I bought by mistake this year (thinking it was knit) and I might try a hacked version with a scalloped edge.


Itch to stitch Belize shorts

This top pattern is a bit of a placeholder.  I need a few more work tops and given this itch to stitch pattern has multiple cup sizes, this pattern may well be it.  But I've also got another pattern that I might spend some time fitting to my current shape as I've made it before and loved it but have sized out of it.  Hoping to get these out of stash fabrics even if it means colour blocking with some newer ones.


Itch to stitch Beausoleil top (or another woven top)

I would like a few more shirts for work and hopefully this pattern will require minimal alterations to get it to work for me.  Again, there should be enough fabric in my stash to pull together one of these.  Though I wonder about print sizes so I might try to create a wearable muslin from stash and then buy something to make another if it works out.


Itch to Stitch Chai Shirt

The new papercut pattern release was covetable and I bought two physical patterns in the Black Friday sales (I'm a little over pdf printing and taping).  I love the lines of Fjord cardi and want to make up a version from scraps in stash before figuring out if I need another. Should be good work wear.  The fact that it doesn't close should make it easier to fit (fingers crossed!).


Papercut Fjord Cardi

I'm not sure the Papercut Palisade trousers were the best option for me as I would really like to just make them up and not alter the pattern for fit - but I'm hoping the fitting lessons I learnt on the Itch to Stitch Belize shorts and Style Arc Willow trousers this year will be useful!  Sewing for littles is so much easier when you ignore the fit!


Papercut Palisade Trousers

The final pattern in my MakeNine is the Jasper Paprika hoodie.  I've printed this off and almost made it a number of times.  I even have fabric for two (wearable?) muslins in stash so I need to get this cab off the ranks this year.  I think its the FBA that's stopping me from getting started.


Paprika Jasper Hoodie

I have a few other planned makes - I'd like to start a blanket for a dear friend (I got a voucher for Holland Road Yarn Company for Christmas and have already purchased the first lot of yarn but need to decide on a pattern) and I started a cardi for LP yesterday on New Year's Eve. I'd also like to make a quilt and have a number of squares pre cut so that might be relatively quick make.

I'm hoping this coming year is restorative.  And hope you have a great year too!